We call him nose, perfumer, or still perfumer-creator. Whatever. Behind these names is hidden an artist with an undeniable talent. A multifaceted worker in the shadow, who does not only rely on his olfactory gift. Discover today who is at the origin of your favourite perfumes…
Perfumer, a vocation ?
To be successful in this job, a good nose and a certain interest in perfumery are not enough. To create a perfume, a “Nose” mainly relies on his imagination and artistic sensibility. But if for a long time you were perfumer from father to son, and coming from Grasse was really helpful to succeed in this field, the profession has progressively became easier to enter. Nowadays, some schools train a few students to master and memorise the natural and synthetic raw materials, and teach them the art of chemistry before sending them with professional perfumers to perfect their education.
Once became perfumer, we might think that the Nose is finally free to create his own perfumes, stimulating his senses and his creativity. Not exactly. Today, rare are the companies integrating their own Noses: Oliver Polge became the successor of his father Jacques at Chanel, Thierry Wasser is the first perfumer who does not come from the family at Guerlain, or Mathilde Laurent at Cartier for instance. But even them, and despite their talent, have to work closely with marketing teams and yield to consumer tests. Other perfumers work for companies dedicated to the creation of perfumes for their clients.
From idea to bottle
However, every Noses share a common way of working: create a perfume is a teamwork! To give you an example, when we decide to create a new fragrance at Carrement Belle Parfums, we already have a precise idea of the olfactory result and the main ingredients of the future perfume. So we share a lot with our Nose. We explain to him the expected notes, the memories and inspirations that led us to work on this fragrance. Then we draw the portrait of the person to whom the perfume is made for. For several months, or even years, we talk with our Nose who will create the base of the perfume. After he enhances it with his personal touch, his signature that we love so much.
The perfumer’s expertise is therefore essential as he masters the dosage and the subtle combination of raw materials. Thanks to him, we will be able to create a unique, magic and unforgettable perfume, which was born into our mind, and created in his nose…