Rose: the perfumer’s essential ingredient

Discover the rose, the perfumer's essential ingredient.
Known for over 3000 years, the rose seduces thanks to an irresistible scent and radiant colors… Presentation of this ingredient indispensable to every perfumer!

Rose is the flower of love: emblem of Venus, Cleopatra used it to seduce Marc Anthony for their first night of love on a bed made of rose petals thick of 45cm. Widely used in the Middle East in the culinary culture or in ancient times for its medicinal properties (Marestheus used roses against depression), this delicate flower is very popular for Western perfumers since the Renaissance, while Islamic perfumery was the first to distil the petals of roses of Damask…

If several hundred species of roses are known, perfumery uses two varieties: Rosa centifolia (also known as Rose de Mai or Provence rose) and Rosa damascena (Damask Rose). This flower is very sensitive to heat: when it is exposed to the sun, its perfume is stronger but less sweet, so its gathering begins at dawn, flower by flower, as quickly as possible as 5 tons of flowers are needed to produce 1 kilogram of essence!

Today, the rosa centifolia is mainly grown in Morocco. Only Chanel still produces it in its private fields in Grasse. Its harvest takes place only once a year and lasts 3 weeks: centifolia of Grasse provides a concrete and then an absolute essence with a warm, honey and wax smell, while centifolia of Morocco gives an essential oil.

The rose damascena is the most widely grown for perfumery: of Syrian origin, it is mainly cultivated in Bulgaria, Turkey and Morocco. Rosa damascena provides the absolute and essential oils, whose smell is fresher and more citrusy and fruity than the absolute.

Perfumers tried to reproduce its smell with synthetic raw materials, but they could not perfectly imitate it yet. Its subtlety made this flower the most popular in perfumery. At Carrement Belle, it took more than 25 years to pay tribute to this romantic and powerful flower. A few weeks ago, and after almost 2 years of creative work, we were proud to unveil label rose, which will hopefully now perfume your skin…

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